How to Choose a Face Serum: Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinol or Peptides?

Opening a serum category can be more confusing than expected. Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol, peptides and niacinamide all target different concerns, and several products may appear suitable for the same skin. The easiest way to choose is not to start with a brand name or the highest percentage on the label. Start with one question: what is my main skin priority right now?

A serum is usually a lightweight, targeted formula designed to introduce specific active ingredients into a routine. It does not automatically replace moisturiser or sunscreen, and there is no requirement to use several serums at once. A simple routine that is comfortable and consistent is usually more useful than a complicated sequence that irritates the skin or is abandoned after a week.

Before choosing: identify one main priority

Your skin can be dehydrated, dull and showing fine lines at the same time. However, starting three or four new actives together makes it difficult to know what is helping and what is causing sensitivity. A practical approach is to choose one main goal for 6–8 weeks while keeping your cleanser, moisturiser and sun protection relatively stable.

Hyaluronic acid: when hydration is the priority

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant: it helps bind water and is mainly used to improve hydration, softness and the appearance of dehydration lines. Modern formulas may combine different molecular weights, which interact with the skin surface in different ways. That does not mean a topical serum works like an injectable filler; the main benefit of topical hyaluronic acid is cosmetic hydration and a smoother, plumper-looking surface.

It is a logical choice when skin feels tight after cleansing, loses comfort during the day, or needs a light hydrating layer under a cream. In the Wellness Expert catalogue, Ainhoa Hi-Luronic Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50 ml is a relevant example. The range combines hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights with additional hydrating ingredients and is positioned for different skin types, particularly dehydrated and mature skin.

How to use it: apply after cleansing according to the manufacturer’s directions and follow with moisturiser. If it is part of a morning routine, sunscreen remains the final protective step. Very dry skin may still need a richer cream; a humectant serum alone does not necessarily provide enough emollients and lipids.

Vitamin C: brightness and antioxidant support

Vitamin C is one of the better-studied cosmetic actives. In an appropriate formulation it can provide antioxidant activity, help improve the appearance of uneven tone and support processes involved in collagen synthesis. The challenge is that “vitamin C” does not describe one single formula. L-ascorbic acid and vitamin C derivatives differ in stability, concentration, pH and tolerability, so a higher percentage is not automatically a better product.

In the Wellness Expert catalogue, ACM Duolys CE Intensive Anti-Oxidant Serum 15 ml is a vitamin C-focused example. The product listing specifies 15% pure vitamin C together with vitamin E and uses compartmentalised packaging designed to help protect formula stability. It is most relevant when the goal is radiance, dull-looking skin and visible signs associated with environmental exposure.

Vitamin C is often used in the morning before moisturiser and sunscreen. It does not replace SPF. If a formula causes persistent stinging, marked redness or increasing reactivity, reducing frequency or stopping it is more sensible than trying to “push through” irritation.

Retinol: the active that benefits most from a methodical start

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family, which is derived from vitamin A. It is widely used to gradually improve texture, uneven-looking tone and fine lines, and retinoids have a strong rationale in photoageing care. At the same time, retinol is one of the ingredients most likely to cause dryness, flaking or burning if introduced too quickly.

A practical strategy is to start slowly—for example, a few evenings per week—and increase frequency only if the skin remains comfortable. A simple moisturiser can follow. More sensitive skin may benefit from a buffering approach if this is compatible with the product instructions. During the day, broad-spectrum sun protection is essential; SPF 30 or higher is a useful baseline.

The Wellness Expert catalogue includes options such as Vagheggi Delay Infinity Age Proof Retinol Face Serum 30 ml, whose listing specifies 1% concentrated encapsulated retinol, and Skeyndor Power Retinol Intensive Repairing Serum in Cream 30 ml. A high-looking percentage is not automatically the right starting point: previous retinoid experience, sensitivity and the delivery system all matter.

Important: retinoids should not be used during pregnancy. If you are planning pregnancy, breastfeeding, have rosacea or eczema, moderate-to-severe acne, or are already using dermatological treatment, professional advice is appropriate before adding a retinoid.

Peptides: promising, but not one single ingredient

“Peptides” is an umbrella term for many different molecules. Cosmetic formulas may use signal peptides, carrier peptides, enzyme-inhibiting peptides and other complexes. Some are designed to support the appearance of firmness, elasticity and smoothness. However, the clinical evidence for topical peptides is less uniform than for retinoids and depends heavily on the individual peptide, the vehicle and how well it reaches its intended site of action.

That is why it is better to judge the complete formulation rather than buy a product only because the word “peptide” appears on the box. In the Wellness Expert catalogue, Maria Galland 640 Lift’Expert Serum combines anti-ageing peptides with ice wine extract and the AGE CONTROL MG complex. Another example is Skeyndor Corrective Deep Lines Refining Serum 30 ml, formulated with several peptides and actives aimed at the appearance of expression lines.

Peptides can be a sensible option for someone who wants a supportive anti-ageing routine without immediately moving to retinol, or for a person looking to add a serum focused on firmness and comfort. As always, tolerance depends on the whole formula, not on one highlighted ingredient.

Niacinamide: a useful “bridge” active

Although it is not always included in the classic anti-ageing serum comparison, niacinamide (vitamin B3) is highly versatile. It can support barrier function, help improve the look of uneven pigmentation and fit well into routines for combination or blemish-prone skin. It is often easier to combine than strongly exfoliating ingredients.

One store example is Vagheggi Balance Serum 30 ml, with 5% niacinamide, colloidal sulphur, erythritol and panthenol, positioned for impure skin and periods when blemishes are more noticeable. This is a useful reminder that the entire formula matters: in this case niacinamide sits within a targeted blemish-focused product rather than a generic “one serum for everyone”.

Can you use more than one serum?

Yes, but you do not have to. A simple pairing might be vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening. A hydrating hyaluronic acid serum can be added at either time if your skin needs it. Peptides or niacinamide are compatible with many routines, but introducing everything together makes tolerance much harder to assess.

If you also use AHA/BHA exfoliants, peels, scrubs or receive professional resurfacing treatments, be particularly cautious when adding retinol. There is no prize for the routine with the most actives. Persistent redness, burning or flaking is a sign to simplify the routine and protect the skin barrier.

A practical 3–4 step routine

Morning

1. Gentle cleanser.
2. A serum selected for the main concern—for example vitamin C, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide.
3. Moisturiser if needed.
4. Broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher.

Evening

1. Thorough but gentle cleansing.
2. Targeted serum; if it is retinol, start with a gradual schedule.
3. Moisturiser suited to your skin type.

This routine is deliberately simple. Directions for the individual product take priority, especially with retinol, exfoliating acids or high-concentration active formulas.

5 common serum mistakes

• Choosing only by the highest percentage. Concentration, chemical form, pH, stability and delivery system work together.
• Starting several actives on the same day. If irritation appears, you will not know which product caused it.
• Forgetting moisturiser. A serum may not provide enough emollients and lipids to maintain barrier comfort.
• Using retinol without consistent sun protection. An anti-ageing routine is incomplete if UV exposure is ignored.
• Expecting instant results. Hydration can change the skin’s appearance quickly; tone, texture and fine lines generally require consistent use over weeks.

So, which serum should you choose?

If your skin is mainly dehydrated, hyaluronic acid is often the most straightforward starting point. If the main concern is dullness or uneven-looking tone, vitamin C may be more relevant. For fine lines, texture and photoageing, retinol deserves consideration but requires gradual introduction and disciplined SPF use. Peptides are interesting for a firmness-focused, supportive anti-ageing strategy, while niacinamide is particularly useful when barrier support, oiliness and blemishes overlap.

The best serum is not the one described as the most “powerful”. It is the one that addresses a real priority, fits with the rest of your routine and can be used consistently without compromising skin comfort. Before buying, always check the current INCI list, directions and manufacturer warnings: formulas and availability can change over time.